restaurant review: horizons

horizons
611 south 7th street
philadelphia, pa
(215) 923 6117
www.horizonsphiladelphia.com

type of cuisine: haute vegan island
culinary excellence: 10
vegan friendliness: 10
*recommended*

an old review of the best place in town:

Praise Jesus that Horizons moved to Philly. This restaurant is in a class by itself. If you want mock Chinese, you can go to Singapore or Su Xing, if you want to order the one scrumptious vegan entree from a menu of flesh, there's the White Dog or Farmicia, and if you want cruelty-free but just as unhealthy fast food it's Gourmet-to-Go or Basic 4. Still, up until a month ago you would have had to travel out to Southampton for a classy sit-down all-vegetarian dining experience. Not any more, my friends, not anymore. Horizons is fabulous. Here's the low down. Munch on their incredible warm bread sticks slathered with herbed garlic compote while waiting for your pitch-perfect margatinis to arrive. Next, enjoy a glass of creamy cucumber avacado soup topped with toasted cumin oil and smoked pumpkin seeds in between bites of piquillo peppers stuff with hearts of palm salad and the stack of tomato, avacado and cilantro on the side. For your entree, I can't imagine doing better than the sopa de tortilla, or roasted seitan tacos in a stew of smoked pinto beans, tomatoes and corn. This was sensational. The Caribbean tempeh was also delicious - thinly sliced glazed tempeh stuffed with "calabaza jambalaya" and "asparagus raita". Yes, Horizons overdoes it with the hyperbolic listings, but you really don't have to worry about that since everything is freaking amazing. Desserts were pretty good, but not on the same level as the entrees. The creme brulee wasn't quite as divine as I remembered from Willow Grove, though it certainly held its own, and the chocolate cake was rich but not luscious in a bland white crust and accompanied by what tasted like frozen peanut butter. Gripes aside, this place could compete with the best of them in New York.

Update: Another delicious visit to the best vegan restaurant in Philadelphia. This time I got to try lots of new menu items, courtesy of my party of four. Appetizers included the exotic olive tasting, a well-presented sampling of those salty green and black delights, the wild mushroom cazuela, a rich tartlet of fungi with roasted garlic in a portini truffle cream, served with little squares of toast, and the Yucatan chopped spinach salad, seasoned with bites of avocado and roasted peppers in a mildly tangy dressing. My entree, the Pacific rim grilled tofu was killer - soft tender tofu in a firey glaze, accompanied by edamame mashed potatoes and beautiful broccolini on the side. Glorious. My mom's pan seared tofu was excellent as well, perched atop a lemon-infused "trofie" pasta that was covered in a creamed basil pesto. Carl's grilled seitan was yet another winner - tender wheat meat, yukon mash and flavorful greens in a pool of horseradish butter cream. This time for dessert I ordered the mojito perfecto, a phenomenal lime sorbet with firm chunks of rum cake with coconut whipped cream and mint. My la playa cocktail was a savory and refreshing tamarind-based drink, topped with shaved nutmeg. My parents were delighted with Horizons. My mom ordered two pieces of Mexican chocolate cake and proclaimed this place the best restaurant, vegan or otherwise, she has been to in a long time. Hooray!

Another Update! I have almost tried all the items on Horizon's menu now. Recently enjoyed the Jamaican BBQ seitan, tender skewered wheat meat smothered in sauce with a generous side of ranch dressing, and the grilled portobella, which was strikingly similar to the sopa de tortilla - same smoky southwestern flavor with thick luscious mushrooms. The Guayaba cheesecake itself was unbelievably delicious, but the island theme - think a tiny glass of coconut soda and minced pineapple - were entirely unnecessary. Specialty drink caipirinha was a little like a mojito and not very exciting. There you have it!